Young vignerons with big dreams, making refined,
precise Champagnes from some of the finest
terroirs in the Aube? You have our attention.
Throw in a Singapore connection? Colour us
intrigued.
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Brothers Edouard and Victor Laculle of Laculle
Frères come from a long line of winemakers and
grape growers on both sides of their family, and they are
men on a mission. Though their paternal family owns prime
parcels in the Côte des Bar, they’d been selling their
grapes to Champagne houses for decades. A few years ago,
the brothers slowed down this practice, reclaimed some
vines, and set out to vinify them in a way that fully
expresses the potential of their top-notch terroir.
Their debut vintage may have just been in 2018, but
already the wines show a poise and quality normally
associated with winemakers twice their age. The Laculle
house style is racy and taut, with a gentle winemaking
style favouring dimension and depth over power. They
succeed where many other Champagne makers do not – their
cuvées are sufficiently fresh and lithe to make for a
great aperitif, yet they also demonstrate the requisite
complexity to take on the weight of a meal. The brothers
avoid oxidative traits in the wines, which they believe
can mask the true character of the Champagne.
Like many young winemakers these days, sustainable and
organic practices are de rigueur for the Laculle
brothers – the health of their vineyard translating
directly into quality in the wines. Edouard is the one in
charge of the viticulture – which is a fitting
responsibility, as he’s most at home amongst the vines.
Earlier this year, winemaker Victor and his Singaporean
wife Richie (who is in charge of the marketing and calls
herself a “part time cellar rat”) launched their debut
vintage on our shores with a sold-out event at Rebel Rebel
Wine Bar. A few months later, we made our way to Victor
and Richie’s home in the tiny village of Buxieul, in the
Côte des Bar, where we were spoiled with incredible
generosity and hospitality. While Richie busied herself
preparing Singaporean meals for our homesick bellies,
Victor gave us our first lessons in riddling and
disgorging the Champagnes by hand. It was great fun but,
suffice to say, none of us will be hired anytime soon.
Left: Richie Laculle-Chen and
Victor Laculle. Right: Victor gives us a lesson in
disgorgement!
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Beneath a shy and reserved exterior, Victor sports a
fabulously wicked sense of humour. But prod him about
wines and he immediately turns serious, passion evident as
he intently explains every detail of his philosophy and
processes. Above all, Victor values wines with a firm
sense of place. His aim is to subtly introduce structure
and complexity, without overwhelming the true character of
the terroir. To that end, the Champagnes are aged in wood
tank separately, with the secondary fermentation done
under agrafe (cork rather than crown caps). He
also has a special passion for Coteaux Champenois – across
the 2018-2020 vintages, he vinified a total of 11
different single-plot Coteaux.
During our trip, we also managed to visit several of
Laculle’s vineyards. Spread over 14 hectares in Chervey,
Meurville and Buxeuil, they’re some of the best sites in
the Côte des Bar region. The brothers work with Pinot
Noir, Chardonnay and the distinctive and native Pinot
Blanc. In line with their focus on sustainability, they
have converted 3.2 ha of the family vineyards to organic
farming, with a further 2.1 ha in the process of
conversion. Once their father fully hands over the
vineyards to them next year, they will convert them all to
organic practices.
Currently, most of the production is still sold to négociant
houses, and the brothers only cherry-pick the very best of
the grapes to vinify themselves. When asked about their
plans for the future, however, Victor replies with a
steely glint, “We want to vinify everything.”
We’re delighted to share with you the thrilling
debut vintage of Laculle
Frères’ wines. Not only is this is the
first Champagne project with a Singaporean in the
mix, but – most importantly – these are incredible
single-plot Champagnes that deserve a place on any
wine lover’s dining table. Their Coteaux Champenois
is also a wonderful example of the heights that
still wines from the Aube can achieve: Victor’s
abiding passion for Coteaux truly shines through.
This is a tiny parcel though, so it won’t be
around for long!
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This offer is valid until 19 September 2022. All of the
wines have restrictive supplies, so please understand that
we may have to allocate them in order to ensure as
equitable a distribution as possible. Under allocation
rules, balanced orders (those that include a selection of
wines across the collection) will receive priority. Orders
will be processed subject to remaining availability and
final written confirmation. Full payment is required no
later than 7 days after confirmation invoice is sent in
order to confirm the purchase. All terms and conditions
apply.
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Bicheret
Pinot Noir Brut
Nature
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S$ 109
/ 750 ml
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100% Pinot Noir from the 2018
harvest. Grown on clay-limestone
soils on the single plot
“Bicheret”, which sits on the
Kimmeridgian bank in the village
of Chervey, in the Côte des Bar.
Alcoholic and malolactic
fermentation in wood tank with 9
months’ ageing on the lees.
Secondary fermentation under cork
using the traditional agrafe
method, to continue with
micro-oxygenation.
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[Winemaker’s
notes:] “This
champagne is robed in pale gold with
reflections of rose. This is led by train
of persistent fine bubbles and an elegant
creamy mousse. The nose reveals the
fruitiness of Pinot Noir with notes of
ripe strawberries, cherries, violets,
hawthorn and licorice embellished with
notes of vanilla and sweet spices. On the
fleshy and fruity palate, we find notes of
burlat cherry, pêche de vigne and
quetsch. This is followed by toasted notes
and hints of cherry seed. To be enjoyed as
an aperitif, with a twice cooked pigeon,
with a stuffed quail or with a Chaource.”
“Open and expressive, this red-fruited,
fruit-forward Pinot Noir brims with the
vibrancy of ripe strawberries and
cherries. On the palate, the wine is
gently creamy with pleasantly soft
bubbles. An approachable and
crowd-pleasing style that performs well
whether as an aperitif or with a delicate
entrée.” AC
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Bourdon
Chardonnay Brut
Nature
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S$ 109
/ 750 ml
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100% Chardonnay from the 2018
harvest. Grown on clay-limestone
soils on the single plot
“Bourdon”, which sits on the
Portlandian bank in the village of
Chervey, in the Côte des Bar.
Alcoholic and malolactic
fermentation in wood tank with 9
months’ ageing on the lees.
Secondary fermentation under cork
using the traditional agrafe
method, to continue with
micro-oxygenation.
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[Winemaker’s
notes:] “This
champagne is revealed in a superb pale
yellow with white gold reflections. A
myriad of fine bubbles play in the light
and weave a persistent crown. The nose is
flattering and elegant with gourmet notes
of mirabelle plum, vanilla, white pepper,
ripe yellow citrus fruits, camellia flower
and fresh bread. The champagne finishes
long with a mix of elegant vinosity and
freshness. To be enjoyed as an aperitif
but also with white fish, with lobster,
with a turbot in the oven but also with
frogs or with a tome de brebis.”
“A lens into the clay-limestone soils
that make up the Bourdon plot, one of the
first and finest vineyards to be replanted
post-phylloxera. The wine opens with an
inviting nose of lemon-balm, ripe yellow
fruit and white flowers. Lithe and elegant
on the palate, Bourdon finishes long, with
an apparent chalky minerality and
salinity.” AC
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Val Moignot
Pinot Blanc
“Cuvée Bertil Andersson” Extra Brut
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S$ 126
/ 750 ml
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100% Pinot Blanc from the 2018
harvest. Grown on clay-limestone
soils on the single plot “Val
Moignot”, which sits on the
Portlandian plateau in the village
of Meurville. Pinot Blanc is an
emblematic grape of the Côte des
Bar region, and on these poorer
soils where the vines must
naturally suffer for growth, this
results in concentrated flavours
and remarkable fruit characters.
Alcoholic and malolactic
fermentation in wood tank with 9
months’ ageing on the lees.
Secondary fermentation under cork
using the traditional agrafe
method, to continue with
micro-oxygenation.
This special cuvée honours the
scientific achievements of
Professor Bertil Andersson, a
world-renowned Swedish plant
biochemist and a dedicated
champion of science, whose
insights have fundamentally
changed the understanding of
photosynthesis and its workings. A
celebration of the far-reaching
impact of scientific discoveries,
this lieu-dit vintage by Laculle
Frères pays tribute to the keen
intellects behind them, and their
enduring contemplations to unravel
the mysteries of the world around
us. 10 euros from each bottle sold
will go towards funding young
scientists, to support their
endeavours to continue pushing the
boundaries of science.
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[Winemaker’s
notes:] “Dressed in
straw gold, the nose is greedy, expressing
a certain sweetness revealing ripe white
peach, Comice pear, yellow plum and basil
leaf. Some vanilla notes reinforce this
delicacy. The attack on the palate is
frank, textural, fleshy and
thirst-quenching. The flesh of the vine
peach dominates and blends with a light
woodiness. The very pleasant mouth
continues on white fruits associated with
Sicilian lemon. To be enjoyed as an
aperitif but also with a sea bass or sea
bream tartare, with a scallop ceviche or
raw fish.”
“We’re big fans of the distinctive Pinot
Blanc from the Aube, and this is one of
the most stunning examples. A real gourmet
wine, the Val Moignot balances the
fruit-sweetness of ripe pears, plum and
white peach with marked salinity and a
savoury herbal touch. A phenomenal pairing
with shellfish and gingery Asian
flavours.” AC
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