Our adventures on the Japanese wine trail take us
today to Nagano Prefecture. It is here at his tiny
family domaine that Yutaka
Nakajima is making some of the most
thrilling, authentic, under-the-radar wines that
we’ve come across in Japan. This is a name you
need to know: Domaine
Nakajima.
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We were so enchanted when we first tried Domaine
Nakajima’s Cabernet Franc, at the legendary La Pioche
wine bar in Tokyo a few years ago, that we knew we
absolutely had to find a way to work with him. Last year
we saw that wish fulfilled after an amazing visit to meet
Nakajima-san at his domaine.
When he was first introduced to wine, Nakajima-san was a
student in culinary school. He became enamoured with
natural wine and began dreaming about making his own one
day. To gain practical experience, he worked at Les
Bois Lucas in the Loire Valley (France), Huber
in Baden (Germany), and Coco Farm in Japan.
Finally, in 2011, he committed himself to planting a
vineyard in the Tomi area of Nagano Prefecture. His small
winery was set up in 2014 and, thus, Domaine Nakajima was
born.

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Domaine Nakajima’s vineyards are beautifully situated on
a south-facing hillside. The vine training method is quite
unusual: the vines have spur pruning on multiple heads,
like a bush vine, but they are mostly trellised. Some
vines are also grown on single stakes. Nakajima-san’s
first plantings were Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc,
Cabernet Franc and Merlot. He also experimented with Gamay
but quickly learned that it wasn’t suitable to grow there.
Recently, he planted some Pinot Gris too, and aspires to
grow Savagnin, Ploussard and Trousseau on some new land
that he has acquired.
Nakajima-san may be a purist in his approach to wine
growing and winemaking, but he’s decidedly pragmatic in
how he manages his young estate. While he patiently waits
for more of his estate-owned vines to grow to maturity, he
makes refreshing pét-nat sparkling wines from Kyoho
grapes, a local table grape variety, to sustain his
day-to-day operations. However, even “casual” wines cannot
obscure Nakajima-san’s special touch: his pét nats have
quickly gained in popularity and have become some of the
most beloved local examples of the genre.
At the domaine, it’s very much a family affair. To run his
estate, Nakajima-san is assisted by his mom, wife and
brother. His wines are made in a natural style with just a
touch of sulphur at bottling. Enchanting, captivating and
soulful, they are as memorable as they are mesmerising. The
only problem at the moment is that they are also extremely
limited.
We have
to admit, this is not actually our first allocation of
Domaine Nakajima’s wine. Last year we managed to ship out a
batch of their pét-nats to cement our newly forged
relationship. However, as this shipment took place a little
late in the season, the allocation was quite small. These
joyful light sparklers sold out quickly, well before we ever
had the chance to formally introduce them. As for the
domaine’s varietal wines (i.e., Cabernet Franc, Merlot and
the white blend), Nakajima-san had produced no more than
1,000 bottles — and since these were already promised to
select addresses across Japan, we had to be content with
waiting for the following year’s releases. Ever the
perfectionist, Nakajima-san subsequently decided that he
wasn’t satisfied with some of his cuvées this year, and
opted not to release them. Nevertheless, we giddily pounced
on whatever he was willing to grant us.
So, at long
last, the moment is here. Today we are thrilled to
be able to offer to you the lovely wines of Domaine Nakajima from the
current release, comprising his uniquely delicious
mildly sparkling pét-nat
rosé and the super-rare, beguiling Cabernet Franc.
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As earnest and down-to-earth as Nakajima-san may be, his
wines — not least due to their allure, delicate finesse
and rarity — are destined to be cult favourites. We
believe that the best time to follow a star is as it
begins its ascent. For Domaine Nakajima, that time is
surely now.
This offer is valid until 11 August 2020. Orders will be
processed subject to remaining availability and final
written confirmation. Limited quantities mean allocation
rules will apply. Full payment is required no later than 7
days after confirmation invoice is sent in order to
confirm the purchase. All terms and conditions apply.
Additional reference:
- Jamie Goode’s Wine Blog
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